Surfing on acid
In his final published interview, B. Bunker Spreckels, sometimes known as "the most decadent person in surfing," recounts his philosophy of how drugs and surfing mix. Spreckels was born into a $50 million fortune and died at the age of 27, but his philosophy lives on:
Were there any drugs that were good to do while surfing?
Yeah, LSD, when it first became popular. I believe it was a factor in rearranging the boards. The boards got smaller. The surfing got more radical. People were having hallucinations and visions and vibrations, spiritual revelations. Or else they were having complete bummers. Surfing just seemed to be the only thing to do when you take a dose of acid. It was a hell of a lot better than sitting around in somebody's room staring at them, thinking you were reading their mind or having some kind of hallucinogenic tangent. I think that the only drugs that really brought surfing through to another level were the psychedelic type - mushrooms, mescaline, psilocybin. Other drugs are like anaesthesia. They make you so numb that they shut your senses down so you can't feel the currents that are going on around you. They make you numb.
What drugs in particular?
I think marijuana makes you numb for surfing - cocaine or heroin take the edge off surfing.
Wait a minute - heroin takes the edge off surfing? There goes my whole freakin' weekend...
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